二世古酒造 ニセコ 日本酒 酒蔵 オンライン酒蔵留学 ハンズオンsake

[Niseko Sake Brewery, Kutchan-cho, Abuta District, Hokkaido] A close look at the inherited brewery that brews the Japanese sake "Niseko" in Niseko, a resort area in the northern land! ~Online sake brewery study abroad~

Online sake brewery study abroad report

Online sake brewery study abroad isA sake mail order service that allows you to connect directly with local alcohol makers and toast together while staying at home.It is.
You can also taste the thoughts and personality of the creator, and through sake you can learn about life, make new connections, and"Oshizou"It becomes a place where things are born.

In this article, we will introduce the sake breweries that have participated in the online sake brewery study abroad program!
Please take a look at the sake brewery's thoughts and commitment through this article.♪

This time, we will be featuring the 30th Online Sake Brewery Study Abroad event.Nisei Koshuzo (Hokkaido)We would like to introduce♪

About Niseko Shuzo

Nisei Koshuzo Hokkaido Kutchan Town Sake Sake Brewery
*Image source: Nisei Koshuzo HP

 

"Niseko"When you hear this, the first thing that comes to mind is Hokkaido's premier winter resort, which is extremely popular with foreign tourists.

Surrounded by mountains such as the Niseko Mountain Range, which reaches its peak at Niseko Annupuri at an altitude of 1,308m, and Mt. Yotei, which is one of Japan's 100 Famous Mountains, it is surrounded by abundant nature, with the Shiribetsu River, the clearest in Japan, flowing through the center.
It has become a hot topic, especially during the season, when skiers come from not only Japan but from all over the world to enjoy the powder snow that falls almost every day.

Nisei Koshuzo is made up of three towns in this magnificent area.[Niseko tourist area]The brewery is located in Kutchan-cho, Abuta-gun, which is one of the areas.

In 1972, the current Mizuguchi family took over the business of a sake brewery established in 1916, which was originally established in this area, and was reborn as Nisei Koshuzo.

Near the storehouse is a beautiful cone shaped like Mt. Fuji, which is why it is called ``Ezo Fuji.''"Mt. Yotei"is towering,"Good sake with sincerity. Famous sake can be found at the foot of Yotei."Under this slogan, sake is made with a focus on water, rice, and air.

In addition, in the harsh environment covered in deep snow in winter, the third-generation brewery chief brewer performs ``Kamakura low-temperature fermentation'' in the brewery, where you can feel the breath of the earth."Wataru Mizuguchi"Mr. and other brewers have been carefully preparing sake year after year.

Nisei Koshuzo Sake

The representative brands inherited from the time of business succession are"Nisei Ko"
The water for preparation is underground water nurtured by the blessings of Mt. Yotei. We mainly use three types of Hokkaido rice, including ``Comet.''
It can be said to be a genuine Hokkaido sake packed with all the blessings of Kutchan Town and Hokkaido.
Another feature of our sake is that we are particular about using unprocessed sake without adding water, and the acidic food sake type brings out its flavor when paired with seafood.

At the time the brewery was inherited, local sake culture had not yet taken root.
Nisei Koshuzo is"Bringing local sake culture to Hokkaido."We have continued to work hard at sake brewing based on this aspiration, and are now loved by sake fans across the country for the taste that harmonizes the majesty of nature with the passion of our brewers.

In recent years, the brewery has continued to grow its roots in this area as a local sake brewery that works closely with the local community, such as by working with agricultural high school students to make sake and promoting Niseko fermentation tourism.

Introducing local sake culture to Hokkaido. The troubles of successive warehouses

Nisei Koshuzo Niseko Sake Hokkaido Sake Brewery
*Image source: Nisei Koshuzo Instagram

Due to Hokkaido's harsh environment and slow development, there was a long period when local sake culture did not penetrate Hokkaido.
However, the generations before us dared to stay here in such an era."Make Japanese sake with local water and rice"This belief was the beginning of Nisei Koshuzo.

It is said that it took many hardships, challenges, and fateful encounters with people before he was able to gain the understanding of those around him.

The history of the brewery itself is over 100 years.
However, ``the history as a second-generation old sake brewery'' is said to be ``50 years as a inherited brewery.''

The reason for this is that Mr. Mizuguchi's grandfather inherited a brewery that was on the verge of going out of business.
At that time, the quality of Hokkaido's rice was not yet stable, making it difficult for a ``local sake culture'' to take root.

This was a time when many breweries purchased rice from Honshu (Niigata, Akita, etc.) and sold it as ``Hokkaido's local sake.''

Meanwhile“I really want to make sake with local ingredients.”That's how the idea grew.

However, my grandfather, who bought the brewery without any experience in sake brewing, faced bankruptcy as early as his second year.

At first, the quality of the sake was not very good, and the local stores couldn't sell it, so they struggled against the odds.

Still, without giving up, my grandfather loaded up a truck full of sake and started selling it himself, going door to door to distant farms.
The one bottle you offer, saying, ``Try it,'' leads to the next bottle. Over time, these steady efforts slowly gained the trust of the local community.

And finally, an izakaya chain"Tsubohachi"The transaction will begin.

In fact, the reason for this relationship was also a miraculous coincidence!

The founder lived in the neighborhood of his grandfather, and it is said that they became friends through consulting about finances.

``At first, it was about money, but before we knew it, we decided to deal with alcohol as well,'' says Mizuguchi.

“Connections with people” became a major source of support for Nisei Koshuzo, which was in a critical situation.

Wataru Mizuguchi was 30 years old when he returned to the brewery as the third generation owner.
He had previously worked at a hardware store and had no experience in brewing sake.
Looking back on those days, he says, ``It was a completely different world, and I had a lot to learn.''

However, the spirit of “manufacturing” is the same. Through repeated trial and error, he developed a strong belief that he could make sake using only rice grown in his hometown of Hokkaido.
Now, most of the sake in the brewery is made from 100% Hokkaido rice. The water of this land, the climate of this land, and the sake grown by the people of this land.
Exactly“Sake packed with the foothills of Mt. Yotei”It is.

Water and sake rice grown with the blessings of Mt. Yotei, Ezo Fuji

Nisei Koshuzo Mt. Yotei Sake Sake Brewery Hokkaido

Kutchan Town, Hokkaido is a town nestled between the Niseko Mountain Range and Mt. Yotei.
Underlying water from Mt. Yotei and the surrounding mountains supports the exceptionally clear taste of Japanese sake.
This is pure soft water that takes over 30 to 40 years to spring up.

``The tap water in this town itself is water from Mt. Yotei,'' says Mizuguchi.
Generally speaking, sake is often brewed using underground water, but Kutchan's soil has a lot of underground water that contains iron, making it unsuitable for sake brewing.
For this reason, there is a history in which the people of the pioneering era went through great pains to develop a water source at the foot of Mt. Yotei and brought water to the town.
Indeed, water is the lifeblood of the entire town. This water supports the sake of Nisei Koshuzo.“Drops of life”There is also.

The spring water is cold even in summer, and you can feel the cooling sensation when you dip your hands in it.
The water is ultra-soft, with a pH of less than 7 and a hardness of less than 30, giving it a surprisingly mellow taste.
“This water is perfect for coffee,” says Mizuguchi.
In fact, it's so popular that cafe owners in Sapporo come to collect water with plastic bottles.
I would like to drink just water once.♪

This soft water is used in the sake brewing process - from washing the rice to brewing - to create the delicate and sharp taste that is unique to Nisei Koshu Brewery.

In addition to the water from Mt. Yotei, they also use mountain spring water depending on the season.
``Both types have the same stable pH and soft texture.We choose the most suitable water according to the rice and climate at that time of year,'' says Mizuguchi.

We put a lot of thought into each piece, as if in dialogue with the local natural environment and the seasons.
``If you decide on a theme and take it one step at a time, you'll end up with even better sake,'' he says.
You can feel the passion and pride that supports the brewery.
Once again, at the root of Nisei Koshuzo's sake production is a strong belief in ``brewing with local rice and water.''
When the owner returned to the brewery, approximately 70% of the rice used to make sake was produced outside Hokkaido.
"Even though it's local sake, it doesn't use local rice."
He says he was deeply shocked by this reality.
From there, the challenge of working together with rice producers began.

We have spent over 10 years increasing the number of contracted farmers, and now we use Hokkaido-produced rice for all of our sake. Half of that is rice from Kutchan Town and Niseko Town.

Although sake rice cultivation in Hokkaido has a short history compared to other prefectures, it has a history of working hard to produce higher quality rice suitable for sake brewing through repeated trial and error.

Above all, this land has an abundance of water from melting snow, and because the sake rice grown in that water and the strength of people resonate together, sake with a clear taste is produced.

Nisei Old Sake Brewery Mt. Yotei

``I once harvested rice in early October, just before harvesting, with a view of Mt. Yotei covered in snow, which is a rare sight,'' says Mizuguchi.
The sake rice that grows vigorously in this majestic landscape seems to capture the harshness and beauty of nature as it is.

Nisei Koshuzo mainly uses Hokkaido rice."Comet" "Kitashizuku" "Ginpu"Three types. Each type of sake rice has its own unique characteristics.

``Comet'' is characterized by its small core and solid grains. This sake rice has a refreshing, crisp, and light taste.
On the other hand, ``Ginpu'' has a large shinpaku, dissolves easily, and has a rich flavor. This will be a sake with a strong flavor and thickness.
And "Kitashizuku" is in between the two. This is a relatively new variety and has an attractive balance of softness and transparency.

``The types of rice that are easy to grow differ depending on the region, so at Nisei Koshuzo we mainly focus on ``Comet'' and ``Kitashizuku,'' says Mizuguchi.
All of these are sake rice that we can be proud of, produced by Hokkaido's climate and natural features.
From beginners to connoisseurs, please enjoy the uniqueness of each sake.♪

A challenge to make kimoto that expands the range of Hokkaido sake!


Another thing that Mr. Mizuguchi is passionate about is"Making Kimoto"It is. It has truly expanded the possibilities of traditional Hokkaido sake!
Although it is an old-fashioned and time-consuming method, for Mr. Mizuguchi, it is also the ``origin of his own style'' of sake brewing.

Mr. Mizuguchi was an ordinary office worker with no knowledge of sake brewing until he was 30 years old before returning to the brewery, but during that time he had the opportunity to participate in an alcoholic beverage training program sponsored by an independent administrative agency.
In 2006, he studied sake brewing in Tokyo, and in 2009 at the National Alcoholic Beverage Research Institute in Hiroshima.

``More than a dozen brewers from all over the country gathered, and in the evening we brought sake from each brewery and had a drink.There were two breweries among them that were making ``kimoto'', and I was really drawn to the taste.It just clicked with my taste, and I started thinking, ``I want to try making kimoto myself someday.''

This is how Nisei Koshuzo's ``kimoto preparation'' began.

Nisei Koshuzo's kimoto production process involves a slightly unique process.
That is,``Treading on sake rice with your feet''That's what it means. Carefully press the sake rice with your feet, just like kneading udon noodles.

``Originally, kimoto is prepared by mixing the rice and koji by hand or on a wooden board in a shallow bucket like a small basin, and in advanced stages, by multiple people using paddles.
However, we have a small number of craftsmen. There“Maybe it can be done with a small number of people by using the legs as sticks.”That's what I came up with and started this step-in method."

At first, it felt like walking through a rice field.
However, as you step on it for the second and third time, the koji loosens, enzymes are released, and the dough becomes softer. One of the unique charms of this work is that you can feel the changes in the soles of your feet.

Of course, this takes time and effort, but by stepping on it with your feet, you can get a sense of the condition of the sake rice.
It's a job that you can really learn!

In addition, when making Kimoto, it is difficult to control temperature and humidity, and the period in which it can be brewed is limited.
Since Nisei Koshu Brewery is a rather orthodox brewery, it is necessary to focus on brewing at specific times.

Brewing sake in a cold environment tends to produce clear sake with no unpleasant flavors.

This is a fermentation method that takes advantage of the harsh natural environment.
Even though sake has the same name as ``Kimoto'', the difference between it and the warmer regions of Honshu is what makes it so special, and perhaps reflects the richness of Japan's land.

Of course, the simplicity of koji does not mean managing it. It is necessary to carefully determine the temperature so that it does not drop too low.

In recent years, Hokkaido has also begun to feel the effects of global warming.
"The balance of fermentation can easily be disrupted by changes in temperature, so we need to manage it more carefully from now on."

Still, Mr. Mizuguchi speaks with a smile.
"It's hard work, but I love the time I spend making Kimoto. There are some years when I can't make Kimoto as much as I would like, but I want to keep doing it as long as I can."

While preserving tradition, Nisei Koshuzo continues to innovate to suit the times.
Feel it with your feet, brew it with your heart - each drop is filled with the warmth of Hokkaido's nature and people.

Together with the region. Sake brewing with agricultural high school students

Nisei Koshuzo Hokkaido Sake Brewery Sake

The idea of ``making sake with local agricultural high school students'' stemmed from Mr. Mizuguchi's daughter attending the agricultural high school.
The principal at the time was from Niigata Prefecture, a prefecture with a thriving agricultural industry.
"I want them to learn not only about production, but also about processing."It all started with a passionate consultation.

Mr. Mizuguchi was initially hesitant, thinking, ``Sake for high school students!?'' However, in response to his serious desire, Nisei Koshuzo decided to cooperate.
In addition to being involved in sake making, the high school students also took on challenges such as promotion, label design, and the development of sake lees sweets.“Circular learning centered on rice”I am experiencing.

And surprisingly, in 2023, it won an award at the Sapporo Bureau's New Sake Appraisal!
However, the students in their first year were not able to do as much as they wanted due to the coronavirus pandemic, and it seems that they were feeling confused and had a lot of hardships.
At a time when even adults were living under severe restrictions, local high school students continued their passion to create a bottle of sake."Nakagokoro"completed.

Nisei Koshuzo Sake Tadashi Junmai Ginjo

The brand name ``Nakagokoro'' was given to us after the name of the students' teacher.
The series' labels were designed by local agricultural high school students.
In the first year, students wrote dignified calligraphy by themselves. The second year has a pop design, and the third year has a fantastic scenery of Mt. Yotei reflected in the rice fields.
This label, imbued with a youthful sensibility, is one of the reasons why it is loved by locals.

As for the quality of sake, which changes every year, the students are of course underage, so they seek advice from their parents and others, and are adventurous in designing it.

Every year, we store them in a special storage facility so that they can taste the sake they have made when they turn 20.
``One day I'll be able to drink alcoholic beverages made with my own hands.'' Our efforts to create a bottle that embodies this desire continue to this day.

Although the students are still young and many do not pursue a career in sake brewing, there are some who are interested enough to visit the brewery.
``I'm very happy to see young people gradually becoming involved, such as the daughter of a brewery chairman who won an award in recent years helping make koji.
If we can put a system in place, I think it will be an opportunity for younger generations to enter the world of sake brewing in the future. The industry cannot develop without the power of young people, so I want to continue nurturing them with care,” says Mizuguchi.

 

[Nisei Koshuzo]

044-0083
47 Asahi, Kutchan-cho, Abuta-gun, Hokkaido
TEL:0136-22-1040
FAX:0136-23-2110
HP:https://niseko-shuzo.com/

Introducing Nisei Koshuzo's sake and pairings♪

Junmai Ginjo Tadashi (Nakagokoro)

Nisei Koshuzo Junmai Ginjo Tadashi Sake Hokkaido Sake Brewery

A sake developed by Nisei Koshuzo together with agricultural high school students.
A ``Fresh Junmai Ginjo that is perfect for eating,'' with a sharp acidity and just the right amount of umami that spreads out in your mouth.

The rice used is ``Comet'' grown by the students.
Sake rice is relatively low in protein and tends to have a clean outline.
It has the characteristic of being both juicy and sharp.
Because agricultural high school students work on cultivation while receiving guidance from professionals, the quality is said to be more stable than that of Comet, which is grown by contracted farmers.

Another feature of this product is that it is made with a blend of Kyokai No. 9 yeast and No. 14 yeast, which suppresses the aroma.

If you drink it after cooling it well, you can enjoy the clear aroma and sharp acidity.
If it is kept at room temperature, the flavor will swell, and it is expected that it will have a better balance as an accompaniment to a meal.

■Junmai Ginjo Tadashi (Nakagokoro) Specifications■

raw materials Rice (domestic)/Rice malt (domestic)
Rice used comet
Rice polishing ratio 55%
Alcohol level 16 degrees
Japanese sake level +2
acidity 1.8

Recommended pairing for “Junmai Ginjo Nakagokoro”

Junmai Ginjo Tadashi (Nakagokoro) Sake Nisei Koshuzo Snacks Pairing Hands-on Sake Online Sake Brewery Study Abroad

Nakagokoro, which has a refreshing acidity, goes well with seafood dishes such as the refreshing takowasa and the concentrated umami flavor.

You can also pair it with light dishes such as white fish sashimi (sea bream, flounder, etc.), slightly cooled tempura (shrimp, vegetables), cheese, etc.
It is also a pairing that takes advantage of the benefits of sharp Junmai Ginjo, which cleans away the oil from fried foods and invites the next bite.♪

Nisei Koji Kimoto Junmai Kitashizuku

Nisei Koshuzo Kimoto Junmai Kitashizuku Sake

Mr. Mizuguchi, who fell in love with Kimoto, created Kimoto Junmai from Nisei Koshuzo.
The rich flavor and structure typical of Kimoto, as well as the firm acidity, are impressive.
Kita Shizuku is a type of rice that tends to produce a soft flavor with few off-flavors, but the addition of the acid from Kimoto makes it a ``big-boned sake that rivals food.''

Also, this Kimoto is overwhelmingly recommended to be served at room temperature or hot!
Just like cooked rice, warming it will increase the flavor and soften the acidity.
At room temperature, the acidity and flavor are well balanced.
Please enjoy the change in temperature range.

■Niseko Kimoto Junmai Kitashizuku Specifications■

raw materials Rice (domestic)/Rice malt (domestic)
Rice used Kita Drop
Rice polishing ratio 60%
Alcohol level 15 degrees
Japanese sake level +2
acidity 1.7

Recommended pairing for “Niseko Kimoto Junmai Kitashizuku”

Nisei Koshuzo Kimoto Junmai Kitashizuku Sake Snacks Pairing Hands-on Sake Online Sake Brewery Study Abroad

As expected, cheese threads such as cream cheese and mimolette, which also have lactic acid, go perfectly with lactic acid-based raw moto!
Furthermore, the acidic and heavy taste is best paired with strongly seasoned yakitori, etc., as the umami harmonizes with it.♪
What's more, it's delicious when you drink it with Genghis Khan, a dish unique to Hokkaido!

Nisei Koshuzo Q&A

Here are some of the questions I was asked to Mr. Mizuguchi during my study abroad trip.

What do you pay the most attention to when brewing sake, and what are you particular about when it comes to labels?
The most important thing for us at Nisei Koshuzo is ``How to make sake that is reproducible.''
In particular, ``washing rice'' and ``draining water'' are like the ``foundation'' of building a house. No matter how great a building is, it won't last long if it doesn't have a solid foundation.
. The same goes for sake making, and this process is extremely important.
The labels are filled with the warm feelings of the people who designed them.
The labels for the ``Color'' series were drawn by the late Professor Wakayama, who lived in Sapporo.
The labels are separated by type of alcohol in colorful colors such as red, blue, and yellow, making it easy for customers to choose.
Niseko is a popular place for foreigners, but do foreigners ever come to your brewery? Also, are you taking any measures to increase awareness among foreigners?
At present, we do not have a system specifically designed for foreign visitors.
However, from now on, we would like to move forward one step at a time through tasting and sales, so that more people, including people from overseas, can enjoy Hokkaido's local sake, Nisei Ko.
In addition, there is a JR station right next to Nisei Koshuzo, about a 5-10 minute walk away, and in the future that station is scheduled to become a Shinkansen stop. If access improves, it is expected that the number of people visiting from Japan and abroad will increase further.
I think yeast doesn't work well in cold regions. What kind of measures do you take?
Because the storehouse is built with an earthen wall, it is not easily affected by the outside air and maintains a stable temperature of 1 to 3 degrees Celsius.
As fermentation progresses, the moromi itself generates heat, which naturally maintains the temperature of the entire brewery.
When it's too cold, we use fan heaters and jet heaters to gently warm parts of the brewery. It's also important to make sure the temperature doesn't drop too much."
``Ginjo sake is basically fermented slowly at low temperatures.Hokkaido's cold weather is actually an ideal environment.''

How to participate in the online sake brewery study abroad program?

 

“I want to know more about the thoughts of sake brewers!” “I’m interested in studying abroad at a sake brewery online!”That's calledPlease join us below!
This will be a valuable opportunity to talk directly with a different sake brewery every month, so you might find one you can recommend.♪
We look forward to your participation!

Participate in an online sake brewery study abroad program

Online sake brewery study abroad process

① Alcohol will be delivered in advance!
・After applying for the online sake brewery study abroad program, the sake will be delivered to your home.

② Participate in online sake brewery study abroad!
・Cheers with the creator! (ZOOM or YouTube LIVE)
・Divided into the first and second halves, we will explore the key points of Oshizo while interacting with everyone.

③ You can make drinking friends all over the country!
・Exchange information online with sake fans from all over the country and make drinking friends.

You can read the report summarizing past online sake brewery study abroad experiences here, so please check it out!
↓ ↓ ↓

With the creator"Connect"
The thoughts of the creator"Peek"
our worldview"Spread"

Cheers with a hands-on pose again next time!

*Past report articleshereFrom! !

Add friend


The person who wrote this article


icon
Tomo sake writer Hobbies: Standing bar, going to rock bars, gym, cooking, movies
icon
Jun sake writer While I am involved in manufacturing, I am also a sake writer.
I discovered the deliciousness of Japanese sake and was completely hooked.
I would like to spread the culture of Japanese sake.♪

Hobbies: Glasswork, traveling, futsal
FOLLOW ME
Back to blog

Leave a comment